This is just a quick reference shot of the switches for the max range of movement in the top of the turret. One tip here is to mark the back section as the back to save work later. This we will just glue to our lower hinge part we cut from the motor module later. There are 2 contact switches that it presses to indicate max movement up and down. The bottom of the launcher module we will need to remove for our project here. So this is a step where someone else doing this for you pays off in time and frustration savings. We will be connecting its power lead to the motor in the airsoft gun in a later step. Finally throw the motor bits into that bucket, bin or box of assorted electronic parts you never seem to use. Remove any unnecessary gears on the inside of it with a little pressure from a screw driver. With the motor module isolated finally we will be cutting it in half. Sets the sensor aside this will be vitally important for later steps. Next we will strip this all down a little more… pulling the spring retention clip off the front of the motor module as well as the firing sensor. The innards are under tension of 3 rather robust springs so when you pull the last screw out it will very likely self disassemble all over your work bench for you. Next up is to remove the 4 outer screws from the back plate to remove the internal mechanics of the launcher. Next step is to remove the 2 screws in the back of the launcher to expose the motor for firing control and the wire leading to the sensor for firing. Don’t loose or misplace those 2 small mounting plates! Once you have freed the launcher cut the wires in the middle of their length so you can reattach them later. With the 4 screws removed you will have 2 mounting plates fall aside and the upper launcher will come loose. With the second motor module removed you can clearly see the 4 screws holding the launcher section to the upper portion of the turret.
With the screws to the white gear removed you will have to remove the screws holding on the second motor module to the upper turret module to gain access to the screws holding the launcher in place. Once you have the unit open you will have to remove the motor module to expose the 3 screws in the large white gear holding the upper section to the lower. There are 3 screws under the rubber feet that will allow you to gain access to its wire stroon innards. So step one of disassembly is to remove the bottom plate from the USB missile turret.
so step one is to use a slightly maniacal laughter at the little foam “missiles” knowing what type of firepower this would be capable of when you’re done. It’s a fairly simple 3 function device consisting of up – down, left – Right, and fire – fired. This would be equivalent to a medium cyanoacrylate for model builders. At 2.00 a bottle for the good stuff is a fair deal. And it likes to react with the plastic for a good deep bond of plastics. Other than some basic tools this is the only thing we will be using for assembly. Basically we will be replacing the entire missile launching head from this with the airsoft guns guts. We picked this USB missile launcher up from for 40.00 USD. So this will be the brains of the operation.
Alternately if you wanted to use the CO2 Powered versions you would need to come up with a mechanical method of firing them. This gun is capable of 350 rounds per minute at 175 FPS and runs on only 4 AA batteries (6 Volts DC) and is perfect for all the modifications we will need to do to it. Now don’t let the electric title sway you. There are mainly 2 different types of airsoft guns, CO2 and Electric. We picked this little beauty up at the local mega-lo-mart for about 19.00 USD. These air soft guns shoot a plastic BB at up to 250 FPS and is powerful enough to leave some healthy welts on unsuspecting targets. So what’s this for then? Shooting the local office mullard, century turret for your home, or even pidgin control. For now we will be modifying a simple USB based foam missile launcher base and an airsoft gun then blending them into a USB airsoft turret. A simple cheap version and a “what I envisioned version” that will come later in a 2.0 version. But with all the feedback I have been getting lately about doing projects on the cheap rather than on the grandiose I have decided to do this project in 2 versions. I have wanted to do this project for a while.
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